Fertilizer Science & Math

      Today let’s talk numbers, more specifically about fertilizer numbers.  Most of us use a ppm meter (parts per million), an EC meter (electrical conductivity), or a TDS meter (Total Dissolved Solids.)  All three of these measurements are different ways of expressing the same information.  Basically it is the amount of fertilizer or solute that is dissolved in our fertilizer and water mixture.  Knowing this value allows us to push our plants to grow to their maximum genetic potential! 

     First understand that PURE water actually conducts no electricity.  That being said the more fertilizer dissolved in water the more conductive of electricity it becomes.  So measuring the amount of electricity that is transferred from one electrode and received by a second electrode gives us an idea of how much fertilizer is present in a solution.  This is the basic way all of these meters work.  Suppose though you want to know more than just the total amount of fertilizers combined in a solution.  What if you want to know how much of that PPM value Potassium is… then read on!

         The N-P-K ratios are the 3 numbers present on most if not all fertilizer packages.  But aside from figuring out which one is for vegetative growth (a high Nitrogen number,) or what might be better for fruiting or flowering (a higher 2^nd and 3^rd number,) what do they really tell us?  If you want to really understand the N-P-K ratio on your fertilizer then the information below will be very helpful. 

 TDS or Total dissolved solids is a measure of everything that is dissolved in the water

• PPM or parts per million is a proportional measurement of solute (dissolved stuff) in the water.  IT IS A WEIGHT / WEIGHT PROPORTION… 1 part per weight of a solute in 1 million parts per weight water = 1 PPM
• 1 gallon of water (H20) has a volume / weight of 3.785 liters or 3,785,000 mg

(It can have both a volume and weight because at 3.98 degrees Celsius 1 liter of water weighs 1,000 grams & only changes by 4% from 0-100 degrees Celsius)

• If we are looking to determine how much actual Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potassium is actually in a solution of XXX ppm then follow the steps below:
• For this example lets use a fertilizer that has an N-P-K of 15-7-11.  Our fertilizer after weighing 10 tsp has an average weight of 1.74 grams per tsp or 1,740 mg.
  • First let’s find how many PPM there are in 1 tsp of fertilizer added to 1 gallon of water.  Take the weight of fertilizer in grams and divide it by the weight/volume of 1 gallon of water.
    • 1,740 mg fert. / 3.785 Liters of water = 459.7 PPM  
    • We will round up and call it 460 PPM
• Now of that 460 PPM how much actual Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potassium actually is there.
  • Nitrogen is measured as Elemental Nitrogen so it is the easiest to determine… Just multiply 460 PPM by the amount of Nitrogen in our fertilizer’s NPK…15% or .15 so there is (460 PPM x .15 = 69 parts per million Nitrogen in our solution
  • Phosphorus is more complicated, the NPK uses P₂O₅ which is the oxide form of Phosphorus so we need to multiply by .437 to get the elemental amount of Phosphorus.  So we have [460 x (.07 x .437)] = 14.07 Parts per million Phosphorus in our solution.
  • Similarly Potassium is complicated; the NPK uses K₂0 which is the oxide form of Potassium so we need to multiply by .82 to get the elemental amount of Potassium.  So we have [460 x (.11 x .82)] = 41.49 Parts per million Potassium in our solution.
• So 1 Gallon of water with 1 tsp of 15 – 7 – 11 fertilizer has a total of 460 PPM, of which 69 parts are Nitrogen, 14 parts are Phosphorus, and 41 parts are Potassium. 

• So if you thought that simply 7% or 32ppm of the 460 parts per million in this water was phosphorus then you now see the value of the above calculations!

 If math isn’t your favorite subject then feel free to ask our knowledgeable staff for their recommendations regarding what fertilizers or supplements might best complete or complement your feeding regiment. 

Powdery Mildew: Powder Coated Devastation

      I am going to diverge from my blogs regarding nutrients and supplements for today and talk to you all about powdery mildew.  Recently several gardeners I have spoken with have reported severe problems with powdery mildew and this is what is prompting this rant. 

     There are a number of fungi that can cause what is referred to as powdery mildew.   As the fungus settles on its’ host plant(s) the tissue beneath the fungal growth dies soon after infection.  Damage from powdery mildew includes the stunting and distortion of leaves, flower buds, growing tips, and fruit.  Yellowing of leaves and necrosis of plant tissue can result in premature leaf drop. Nutrients are removed from the plant by the fungus while it attacks your plant.  This will quickly diminish the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, and if left unchecked it can weaken or kill a plant.  Once the disease is present immediate action must be taken.

     Powdery Mildew presents as a dusty white to gray coating on the leaves or other plant parts; it almost looks like someone has lightly dusted the upper surface of the leaves with confectioners’ sugar.  Powdery mildew will start as small circular powdery white spots on the top of a leaf. As the fungal spores spread they will completely cover the leaf surface.

     This fungal attack all starts with an airborne spore landing on the leaf of a host plant.  The spore germinates and attaches itself to the leaf with a tube that pierces the outer cell wall and starts drawing nutrition from the plant.  Within a short time the fungus has reproduced to form a powdery white colony, and from there it starts manufacturing millions of more spores to infect surrounding vegetation. 

     The fungi which cause powdery mildew are spread by spores produced in the white powdery patches. These spores are dispersed by wind or physical agitation where they travel on air currents to a new host plant.  The host plants for the fungi that cause powdery mildew are selective so one species of fungus can not attack all types of plants…they are plant specific.  For example the species of fungus infecting begonias will not cause powdery mildew on cucumbers.

     The fungi that cause powdery mildew proliferate most in periods of high relative humidity.  To reduce your garden’s susceptibility to powdery mildew make sure you have good air movement in and around your plants and that plants are not crowded together.  Overly dense planting can lead to a very humid environment below the canopy.   With little air movement in the undergrowth it becomes a veritable breeding ground for powdery mildew.
    

     There are a few cultural practices that can be employed to help combat powdery mildew.  Heat is an effective control but at the temperatures necessary to kill the fungi it may damage your plants.  Powdery mildew will not grow at 90 °F, and will die when above 100 °F.  Temperatures only need to remain above 100° F for about an hour in order to kill most of the spores.  If you do decide to go this route try to raise the temperature in you grow space right before lights out.  If you are growing hydroponically keep your water/reservoir temperature as close to 60 degrees as possible to help reduce the shock to your plants from the high air temperatures.

     Another cultural practice essential to combating powdery mildew is to have good hygiene.  This it means you must keep a clean grow-space.  All old dying leaves should be removed, but care must be taken to not spread the airborne spores.  If you find a leaf where a white powdery fungal colony has emerged, remove the infected leaf (or leaves) by placing a plastic bag around the leaf and then gently cutting the leaf off into the bag.  Seal the bag shut and remove it from the room quickly.  Make sure you have turned off all you circulation fans before you attempt this so not to spread any spores that might become airborne.   

     I would be remiss if I did not mention that Ozone (O₃) will kill the airborne spores of powdery mildew.  There are two types of ozone generators: corona discharge and U.V.  They both produce ozone but by different methods.  Ozone or O₃ is an unstable molecule and wants to return to its stable form O₂.  When this return to stability occurs, a single Oxygen molecule is released.   It will find another molecule or in this case a mold spore to bond with effectively killing the spore.

 Other Methods of Suppression:

Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide sold as Via Oxy® will act as a contact fungicide and leaves no residue.  When it comes in contact with the powdery mildew it will kill the spores.  To treat plants with Via Oxy (17% pure hydrogen peroxide,) mix 2 tablespoons of Via Oxy per gallon of water and apply liberally by spraying infected areas.

Neem Oil

Neem oil has natural fungicidal properties: it interrupts the fungi’s metabolism on contact, and it stops spore germination. Neem oil is best used as a preventative measure because it works better as a preventative than a cure.  It shouldn’t be used on flower buds or flowers.

pH Up

pH-Up is a general term for an alkali pH adjustment chemical.  It usually is in the form of caustic potash (KOH).  Because Fungi need an acidic surface to grow on by spraying pH-up (diluted in water) on the infected area of your plant it will effectively create an inhospitable environment where the fungi will fail to flourish.  Mix enough pH-up to bring the water solution to a pH of 8.  Then spray liberally on all infected areas.  This is a very effective method of control.

Vermi - T or Serenade®

Vermi-T and Serenade® are liquid solutions of bacterial populations that attack the fungi.   They are easy to use, quite safe and effective.  Just spray them on infected areas of your plant.  If using Vermi-T apply a mixture of 4 parts water to 1 part fresh Vermi-T and spray liberally. 

Milk

Milk kills powdery mildew so well that professional rose growers all over the world use it as a fungicidal spray. Use one part milk to nine parts water.  Use at first discovery of powdery mildew and then reapply weekly to stay off further infection.

Sulfur

Sulfur is a long standing control of powdery mildew. Sulfur sprays can be used but they leave behind a residue on the plant. In greenhouses gardeners use sulfur vaporizers that heat sulfur powder or prills until they vaporize. The sulfur leaves a fine residue of a very low pH on all plant surfaces which inhibit the fungal growth of powdery mildew. A problem with vaporized sulfur is it too leaves behind a fine residue of sulfur on all plant surfaces. To treat outbreaks of powdery mildew use your sulfur burner for 7 to 8 hours per night 1 to 2 times a week.

     *As a side note if you choose to combat your powdery mildew problem using any of the above mentioned sprays please know that spraying liquids on your plants and flower sites will raise your humidity and can lead to mold problems.  To counter act this, increase the air movement around the plants by adding extra fans.  Also try to lower the ambient humidity with a dehumidifier if possible. 

Fungaflor® TR

There is a new weapon out to fight powdery mildew called Fungaflor® TR.  It is a dry micro release fungicide in an aerosol bomb.   One Fungaflor TR bomb can treat up to 1,500 square feet and is easy and highly effective!  Simply clear a 3 foot space around the can before releasing the spray, place the can at or above the height of the plant canopy, turn off all fans, and release after your lights go off.  Leave the room sealed for a minimum of 3 hours or all night.  When the lights turn back on go in and turn on the fans and that is it.  Fantastic and easy!

     There is mounting scientific evidence that the addition of Silica (i.e. Silica Blast, Rhino Skin, or Dutch Master Silica) can prevent and treat powdery mildew.  Also there are new systemic treatments of powdery mildew and Pythium that use a chemically altered form of Phosphorus called Phosphites (Pure Flowers blossom enhancer) that seem to prevent and cure powdery mildew amongst other infections. 

Hello Growers,

      After years of growing I have tried many, many additives.  Most are good, but some make the kind of difference we all search for.  Silica is one of the “big difference” products!  I wrote about silica in my blog “Plant Food Buffet” and the three products I will discuss today all contain Silica in the necessary amount to truly benefit your plants.  The three Products are:

• Botanicare’s Silica Blast
• Dutch Master’s Silica
• Advanced Nutrient’s Rhino Skin

      Silica works by allowing plant cells to build thicker cell walls.  Thicker cell walls have several benefits.  Thicker cells in the leaves make it more difficult for insects to pierce the leaf and thus make those plants a less attractive choice. The thicker cell walls make bigger stems and branches which in turn allow more food & water, as well as plant secretions to move up and down the plant’s Xylem and Phloem (the highways of the plant.)  In addition thicker cell walls mean your favorite plants will be more resistant to environmental stressors such as: extreme heat, drought, and the stress caused by transplanting.  These are just a few reasons to add Silica to your feeding program.  There is even evidence coming out in new scientific studies that Silica treatments can systemically lower if not alleviate your powdery mildew problems!!!  What more do you need to hear?

     If you do decide to add Silica there are two things you should know.  First, most fertilizer is acidic and Silica is alkali (it will raise your pH.)  It is best to add it to your water either first before any other fertilizer or add it last but diluted in water (for example 100ml of Silica in 1 gallon of water.)  This dilution in water will minimize localized chemical reactions (that cloud that appears when you pour concentrated fertilizers or pH adjustment chemicals into your reservoir) which make nutrients bind together and become unavailable to your plant. The Second thing to note is that plants only need a small amount of Silica for all of these benefits so please follow the manufacturer’s instructions.  This is Not on of those things that if a little is good more is better!!!

      No one wants wimpy plants, try some Silica and make your plants HEFTY, HEFTY, HEFTY!!!!

Acids are Cool: Supercharging with Supplements!

     Everyone now has the tools to diagnose nutrient deficiencies and correct them.  Let’s turn our attention to the vast array of supplements that will help to supercharge our plants.  While a complete hydroponic fertilizer provides everything a plant Must have in order to grow, supplements will allow your plants to go beyond just growing and help them to fully maximize their genetic potential.  Even supplements that do not contain “food” can improve a plant’s performance by accelerating nutrient uptake, boosting blossoming, protecting the plant’s root system, and controlling growth habits.  Today I would like to talk about two related supplements that can boost a plant’s performance by improving nutrient uptake. 

      Humic acid is known as a soil conditioner.  It improves the quality of soil/soilless mediums by increasing their ability to retain water and helping to facilitate the movement of nutrients from one soil particle to another making the soil more evenly nutritious.  In addition, it acts as a chelating agent latching onto micronutrients; as they are absorbed by the plant’s roots the humic acid-micronutrient compound effectively increases the efficiency of the plant’s uptake of these micro-nutrients.  It is most associated with increased absorption of Magnesium, Calcium, Zinc, Manganese, and Iron. 

      Fulvic Acid is essentially a more refined version of humic acid.  It is most beneficial in hydroponic systems.  Fulvic Acid accelerates the absorption of nutrients by aiding the transport of these nutrients through the pathways by which they enter the plant.  Fulvic Acid essentially grabs hold of immobile or heavy molecular compounds and streamlines their absorption.  It is most associated with increased absorption of the same elements as Humic acid but also Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.  They are transported into the plant tissue faster and easier, resulting in more rapid growth & bigger yields.  Fulvic acid also allows plants to thrive in higher ppm nutrient solution, effectively cutting down on the risk of over-fertilization.

     Both Fulvic and Humic Acid are safe to use in all stages of plant growth from cutting to bloom.

 Humic Acid Products:

 Fulvic Acid Poducts:

     Continuing with the theme of nutrient disorders, diagnosis, & what to do about it; this week let’s talk about pH.  What would you say if I told you that you could have a grow-room designed by a team of MIT engineers, Texas A&M botanists, & a fertilization program designed by top NASA scientists (what are they going to do now that they can’t put more men on the moon anyway?) So basically I am saying you have the very best of everything but if one little thing overlooked, even with all other necessities of plant growth met and surpassed your plants will shrivel and die in a few short weeks? 

      That’s right, it your pH.  PH is short for potential of hydrogen.  You may ask what kind of potential does hydrogen have? Does it want to grow up and become an astronaut?... it still can't go to the moon.  All we really care about is that pH is a measure of acidity and alkalinity.  It is measured on a 14 point scale 1 being the most acidic, 7 is neutral and 14 being the most alkali.  This is a logarithmic base 10 scale so 9 is not just one point more than 8 on the scale, but it is 10 times more alkali, and likewise 10 is 100 times more alkali then 8. 

A couple of tips about pH:

 Always dilute your adjustment chemical (pH up or down) in a solution of water to about 1 part pH adjuster to 100 parts water.  Use this to adjust you reservoir.  Putting in a concentrated acid or base can cause localized chemical reactions and precipitates thereby binding your nutrients and disallowing them from being absorbed by your plants.

Most fertilizers are acidic and will lower the pH of a water nutrient solution.  The main exception is a silica based additive (i.e. Rhino Skin by Advanced, Silica by Dutch Master, or Silica Blast by Botanicare) these are all alkali and will raise your pH. 

Most fast growing annuals, i.e. tomatoes and peppers will thrive at a pH range of 5.5 – 6.5 in hydroponics, and a pH range of 5.8 – 7.0 in soil.

The ideal area to adjust your pH for hydroponics is 5.8, the ideal for soil is 6.3.

Different nutrients are absorbed at different pH values.  It is best to adjust your solution to the lower end of the scale and allow the pH to fluctuate within the ideal range without adjustment so all nutrients are absorbed. 

Chelated - a chemical compound that contains both a metal and an organic molecule in such a way that the metal is bound within the organic molecule and holds onto it like a "claw".

 Why do you need to know this??????????

 Because!  Many of your micro-nutrients are metals and are often supplied in fertilizer in a Chelated form to allow them to dissolve into the water for easier plant uptake.  Iron, Zinc and Manganese for example are often chelated.  Although being chelated makes them more soluble pH extremes can affect their ability to dissolve.  Iron for example can be chelated in two ways:

•  Iron in the form of Fe-EDTA but this will become unavailable to your plant if the pH is raise above 6.0.
•  Iron in the form of Fe-DTPA a more stable molecule (and expensive to produce) will remain soluble up to a pH of 7.0.

Hello to all of my readers!  Let me start by saying gardening or plant related questions are always welcome even if they are not related to a particular blog.  My goal is to make the world full of better gardeners!  Any questions to that end I will gladly answer. 

Now, this week I have chosen to continue on our path to nutrient enlightenment.  Last week I discussed what elements do for the plant and their mobility or lack there of; that information is vital to diagnosing nutrient deficiencies but it is only the first step.  Mobility will narrow the field but more information will help you become a certified diagnostician when it comes to plant nutrient deficiencies.  To that end I have created the charts bellow. 

 Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms & Remedies

Plant Food Buffet: What Your Plants Want to Eat and Why!!! 

Let’s talk about what your plants want to eat, shall we?  Not the fertilizer brand like General Hydroponics or Botanicare but the actual atomic elements plants need to sustain growth.  There are only 20 elements that plants need!  These are used in 3 levels of quantity: 

• The Big 3 - Hydrogen, Oxygen & Carbon – Massive amounts used.
• The Macro 6 – Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Sulfur, Calcium, & Magnesium – Large Amounts used.
• The Tiny Trace Elements – Iron, Copper, Zinc, Boron, Chlorine, Manganese, Molybdenum, Sodium, Silicon, Cobalt, & Nickel – Minute amounts used.

 So if that is all they want to eat then let’s look at what each one of these elements do for the plant. 

 (H) Hydrogen – supplied by water and air… used for everything.

 (O) Oxygen - supplied by water and air… used for everything.

 (C) Carbon - supplied by water and air… used for everything.

 (N) Nitrogen – used in the making of proteins, vitamins, chlorophyll, hormones, & nucleic acid.  A major part of the vegetative growth process.

 (P) Phosphorous – used in photosynthesis, and regulation of plant metabolism.  Essential for Fruiting and flowering phase of plant development…note a pH under 4.0 will cause a lockout of phosphorous.

 (K) Potassium – necessary for photosynthesis and for respiration, also an activator for many enzymes.  Integral in the manufacture of sugars, carbohydrates, and in cell division.  Known to enhance flavor and color in fruit and vegetable crops. 

  (S) Sulfur – an important component of amino acids, proteins, enzymes and vitamins.  Helps impart flavor to many vegetables.

  (Ca) Calcium – activates enzymes, and is a structural building block of plant cell walls.  Also has an effect on water movement within the plant. 

 (Mg) Magnesium – required for enzymes, carbohydrates, sugars, proteins, and lipids. Necessary for all metabolic functions. Used in the formation of fruits and nuts.

 (Fe) Iron – required for photosynthesis, respiration, as well as enzymes. 

  (Cu) Copper - required for photosynthesis, respiration, as well as enzymes.  Also used in nitrogen metabolism.

  (Zn) Zinc – a component of a multitude of enzymes.  Necessary for DNA replication, gene expression, and carbohydrate metabolism.

 (B) Boron – necessary for calcium uptake, root growth, building cell walls, and the movement of hormones within a plant.

  (Cl) Chlorine – Integral in the regulation of water with in cells.  Needed for the proper function of the stomata.

  (Mn) Manganese - required for respiration. Also used in carbohydrate and lipid metabolism.

  (Mo) Molybdenum – necessary to make the enzymes that convert nitrates to ammonia.

 (Na) Sodium – involved in osmotic and ionic balance.

 (Si) Silicon – Helps to manufacture thick cell walls which are resistant to insect piercing as well as improving resistance to drought and temperature tolerance. 

 (Co) Cobalt – essential to nitrogen fixation and enzymes.

 (Ni) Nickel – Necessary to break down different types of nitrogen molecules into a usable form.

Mobile Nutrients

Immobile Nutrients

Slightly Mobile Nutrients

 An element’s translocatability in the plant is important in diagnosing deficiencies. If the element is translocatable, that is the plant can remove it from tissue in one area and transport it for use in another, then symptoms of deficiency typically appear in the older tissue as the plant mobilizes the element from the more expendable older tissue to the newer growing areas. Conversely, if it is not translocatable, then the deficiency will show more in the new growth areas of the plant. Another diagnostic indicator to pay attention to is the location of the symptoms, are they marginal, inter-veinal or generalized on the leaf?  Check back next week when I will discuss more about diagnosing nutrient deficiencies and how to correct them.

I remember when I was in sixth grade I was given a test.  We were handed a piece of paper with what looked like 100 questions front and back.  The first line said “write your name,” the second line said “read all questions before beginning.”  Well being the impetuous young man I was I wrote my name and started tearing through questions.  I was not even half way done when people started handing theirs in.  That only made me answer questions faster.  I got to the last question and read the following “now that you have read all the questions please write your name and turn your paper in…do not answer questions.” 

So why have I chosen to share this little moment of my past with all of you?  Simple, some of the best advice I can give novice growers when it come to fertilizers, additives, and supplements is to follow instructions.  Not what you have read in a third rate magazine or what you read on a completely unregulated website, not even what a friend of yours told you he heard from a friend of a friend of his who has been growing 25 years the Wizard of OZ himself.  No No No! Follow the instructions of the manufacturer of your products.  Any reputable Fertilizer company has formulations made by scientists that are then extensively tested to ensure effectiveness and quality.  I hear all the time from growers that they like to feed at half strength because they don’t want to over-fertilize!  A reasonable concern for the novice grower, especially those without a PPM meter (A MUST HAVE ITEM), but the fertilizer they are using is not meant to be given at half strength!  It would be like feeding a person only half of the necessary caloric intake (half of each meal) and then asking them to run a marathon.  You see as an indoor grower you have the luxury and benefit of pushing your plants to grow as fast as they can.  We control all aspects of their environment, most importantly the five limiting factors of plant growth:

1. Light – it is never cloudy in your grow-room!
2. Water – There is never a drought in your grow-room (I hope!)
3. Air – Air movement is essential to cool leaves and to move Co2 around the leaves.
4. Co2 – can be enriched from the 400 ppm which is normal to the optimum 1,500 ppm which allows plants to grow faster and bigger!
5. Fertilizer – The subject of our discussion, the plant’s food!

By giving a plant a perfect growing environment we are in essence asking them to run a marathon; to grow as fast as possible beyond that which Mother Nature is capable of providing!  So to ask them to do this in a malnourished state will never end with good results.  The same is true of growers who subscribe to the philosophy of “if a teaspoon is good, then 4 teaspoons is better!”  This overfeeding will inevitably end with over fertilization as plants are incapable of assimilating that much nutrient.  Their attempt to help their plants grow faster will “kill them with kindness.” 

So my simple advice to you, the grower is to follow instructions.  As you become more experienced you may tweak the manufacturer’s recommendations to your specific plant’s needs.  For the most part however, this is only for the experienced grower who has the proper tools to carefully monitor these adjustments, the experience to correct any errors, and an intimate knowledge of their crop’s needs & potential. 

Plants like all living things do not exist in a vacuum.   There is a complex web of living entities, chemical synergists, and other microscopic helpers that when added to your growing regime will increase the growth rate, vigor, health, and YIELD of your plants. 

First there are Fungi.  Have you ever noticed on your lawn one day there are no mushrooms and the next there are these gargantuan fungi popping up everywhere?  That is because the root systems of fungi are massive underground structures.  They make and store enormous amounts of energy and when the conditions are ideal they use that energy to grow these massive fruiting bodies we call mushrooms.  Mushrooms are actually the reproductive organs of fungi; producing copious amounts of spores (seeds) for the next generation of fungus. 

So how does this relate to you the indoor grower you ask?  Well, this underground network of fungal roots called Mycorrhiza, form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots that they come in contact with. This relationship facilitates the sharing of some of the plant's storehouse of organic compounds.  The superfine root structures of fungi are more extensive and more effective than plant roots at absorbing phosphorus, and other nutrients as well.  Your plants for their generosity are gifted the increased ability to uptake water as well as the absorption of nutrients like phosphorus and other minerals.  For these gifts we have the endomyccorhizae to thank.  There is also another type of fungi called ectomyccorhizae, which protect the roots from potential pathogens or diseases.

A particularly important fungi is: Trichoderma.  It’s presence stops harmful fungi from colonizing the same root area.  In essence they act as an army defending your plant from harmful pathogens.  In addition they effectively stimulate root development and increase a plant’s ability to handle environmental stress (i.e. high temperatures). 

So by inoculating your soil or hydroponic media with mycorrhiza you will increase your plant's uptake of water and nutrients, & help you plants fend off disease.  Remember my Gardening Gurus that Phosphorus is essential in the fruiting and flowering stage of plant development; if we can give them a better way to absorb it they will reward you by growing bigger and faster!

You can add Fungi to your plants by using any of the following products:

Our second group of microscopic friends is bacteria.  “GOOD” BACTERIA are called rhizobacteria, because they occur in the rhizosphere (around the roots). These bacteria produce a variety of chemicals that stimulate plant growth. While common in natural settings, their populations are often very low or absent in potting soils, and hydroponic systems.  A second group of bacteria are the mutualists that form partnerships with plants. The most well-known of these are the nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

Bacteria perform important services related to water dynamics, nutrient cycling, and disease suppression.  In a diverse bacterial community, many organisms will compete with disease-causing organisms in roots and on aboveground surfaces of plants.  Again these helpful critters will act as an army of defenders fighting off pathogens and disease before they can hurt your plants!

Bacteria can be added by using the following products:

Lastly, I would like to mention those helpful superchargers called enzymes, found in Hygrozyme & Sensizyme.  Enzymes are biological catalysts (they speed up chemical processes and more!). Most, if not all plant metabolic processes are enzyme driven. Plants use energy to move water and nutrient through cells up to the leaves whereby photosynthesis, these elements are converted to sugars and starches.  Plants must produce the enzymes necessary to take up these nutrients, minerals, and vitamins. This process also requires energy (sugars and starches); now consider how much extra energy your plants could use for fruit or flower production if you supplied a good portion of these enzymes?

Enzymes also play other important roles in plant growth. For example, every hydroponic gardener has probably experienced the dreaded destruction of root disease.  Dead and decaying root matter is the substrate upon which Pythium will grow, that is why whenever we have root disease in a hydroponic system we see that our roots are soft to the touch, brown or black, and covered with a slimy mucus substance, and usually falling apart. Enzymes can dissolve decaying root matter and convert it to sugars and starches, thus preventing root disease.

Enzyme formulations are capable of ensuring dynamic root growth and the ensured absence of root diseases in hydroponic and soil situations; in addition to having a positive benefit on your growth.  An enzyme prevents the formation of Pythium and algae, speeds up degradation of dead organic matters and facilitates the uptake of chemical nutrients. It will not harm beneficial fungi or bacteria.

So, go build yourself a microscopic army today!!!  Remember just because you can’t see them does not mean that your plants won’t reward you.  Your plants will Thank You!!!!